Retro Chic Cheap!
Vintage Costume jewelry, especially rhinestone jewelry, is available, affordable and Glamorous!
Costume gems of the 1930's, 1940's and 1950's are beautifully made, and designed to dazzle. Hattie Carnegie and Coco Chanel gave chic women unapologetically faux glamour.
Coco Chanel's Costume Jewelry
Like most manufacturing, the jewelry business was hit hard by the First World War. The few manufacturers that hadn't been required to switch to war materials were struggling to sell non-essential luxury products. The end of the war brought no immediate prosperity to the jewelry business, but help was on the way in the form of Coco Chanel, whose marketing talent was second only to her fashion flair. Some time between 1925 and 1927, Chanel decorated her dresses with glittery pins and long sparkling chains. The glamorous touches were considered part of her "costumes" and thus costume jewelry was born.
The Industry is Born
The rise of the costume jewelry industry was a unique result of its place in time. It gained a foothold during the twenties when the new fashion for bobbed hair required long dangling earrings, and dropped waistlines cried out for stands of swinging beads. Unlike almost every other manufacturing concern, the fashion jewelry industry went thru the Depression years unscathed. Like the five cent movie, people craved the beauty and escape that that a small sum could buy. When a new frock was out of the question, fifty cents could buy a pair of rhinestone dress clips to add sparkle to an old one.
The Golden Years of Costume Jewelry
From a manufacturer's perspective, rhinestone jewelry was the perfect product; inexpensively produced, reasonably priced, and best of all, with a short shelf life. The pieces were considered so trendy that they would be worn for a season, and then replaced with newer versions. The potential for profit attracted everyone in the jewelry business, from the Five and Ten to fine jewelers. Although reluctant to become involved in the costume craze, makers of fine jewelry were sitting idle as the depression deepened and the war years began. Fine department stores demanded finer quality costume pieces and manufacturers complied. During the 1930's, 40's and early fifties (considered the golden years of rhinestone jewelry) some of the biggest name in the fashion world produced rhinestone jewelry under their brand. Elsa Schiaparelli, Lily Dache, William Hobe, among others designed pieces for their own houses, or manufacturers such as Coro, Trifari, Eisenberg, Hobe, Monet, Boucher, Richelieu, Ciner and Napier.
Care of Vintage Rhinestones
As with any collectible, prices for the most unusual, most beautiful, and highest quality pieces are high. These pieces are usually (but not always) attributable to a particular manufacturer, and are sought after by collectors and wearers with deep pockets to back up their love of glam. For the rest of us, there are plenty of beautiful pieces out there ranging in prices from $20 to a few hundred. When purchasing rhinestone jewelry, look closely to see that all the stones are present. In handset pieces, check to see that the prongs are tight. Store your rhinestone jewelry carefully, guarding against moisture, which will rust metal, and ruin the foil backings which give the stones their sparkle. Clean with a soft cloth or cotton swab, taking care not to dislodge stones. Never immerse in water, and always remember what well turned out ladies of the 1930's knew for a fact- nothing enlivens a dress or an attitude better than a little bit of glitter!
Sources:
RHINESTONES! A Collector's Handbook and Price Guide
Nancy N. Schiffer Schiffer Books 1993
Collecting Rhinestone and Colored Jewelry by Maryanne Dolan
Krause Publications 1988 This book is Highly recommended for novice collectors!
