Embroidery is one of the earliest applied arts. It is finely detailed needlework and a way of decorating textiles with colored threads to form pleasing designs. In some cultures in past centuries, embroidered clothing was a sign of wealth and status.
The Oldest Embroideries
The oldest embroideries and earliest examples were found in Egyptian tombs that dated to the 4th century BC. Fine embroideries were produced in the 12th century in Italy, with the introduction of the famous Viennese mantle. The finest work, however, came from Britain at this time. It included the embroidered vestment or Opus Anglicanum. In the 13th century beautiful embroideries were being made in China. In the 16th century, English factories produced huge numbers of secular embroidery for costume and home furnishings. They were richly detailed and finely made.
The First Embroidery Factories
In 17th century France, Louis XIV established his own and the first embroidery factories to supply his court with these luxurious and decadent textiles. At this time, trade with Europe had become commonplace and those richly embroidered silks from Asia were beginning to influence the European needlework trades with those techniques and decorative detailing.
Embroidery of the Industrial Age
With the industrial age, came embroidery machinery and the finely detailed work of the past was no longer in vogue. People wanted simplicity in their clothing and furnishings. It never died out altogether though. Gentlewomen took embroidery up as a hobby and a pleasurable art. Embroidery is still used to embellish women's clothing today.
Embroideries in the Victorian and Albert Museum
The Victoria and Albert Museum in London has a fine collection of early embroideries dating from the 13th century. The collection includes a square handkerchief dating to 1600, a woman's embroidered silk jacket dating to 1620. Considering how badly silk fabric shatters, this is in very good condition. The embroidery is stunning and gives researchers great insight into the fashion of the period. There is also an embroidered sampler signed Jane Bostocke, dated 1598. For centuries, and well into the Victorian era, young girls were trained in needlework and learned the art of embroidery by way of samplers.
The Victoria and Albert Museum is located on Cromwell Road in South Kensington, London, and admission is free. It is well worth the visit for collectors of historical fashion and textiles.
Collecting Antique Embroideries
Most collectors collect only certain types of embroideries, from primitive samplers to exquisite 18th century French drapes, to early Asian silk designs.
There are numerous Chinese embroideries available, but it's recommended the purchaser does her research. These embroideries, while not outrageously expensive, still represent a $100 or more as an investment and if buying online direct from China beware of reproductions and ask a lot of questions in advance.
European antique embroideries can be much higher. At the large London auction houses like Sotheby's for example, it's not unusual for some piece to go to $10,000 or more, especially those with great detail, have a bit of history and are in very good condition.
Some collectors are willing to buy a fragment of a 16th century piece of embroidered cloth for as little as $100 and this is often seen at online auctions.
For the best pieces, subscribe for catalogs to the major auction houses in New York, Paris or London to stay abreast of what will soon be available. Be prepared to spend a fortune for the really rare and good pieces.
References
- Antiques at Home, Barbara Milo Ohrbach, Clarkson N. Potter, 1989
- The Victoria and Albert Museum's Textile Collection Vol. 3, S. M .Levey and D. King, 1993
- Victoria and Albert Museum, London
- White Works
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